Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
